How To Shade Match Your Foundation Correctly, According to a Professional
Match made in heaven
Can’t seem to get your base right? Professional makeup artist Ady Razak walks us through the dos and don’ts of colour theory and his best tips for picking the right foundation.
At this point, we’ve heard it all: Glass skin, cream skin, glazed donut skin. All of these trends centre around one thing—a flawless, radiant base. For the girls (and guys) who struggle with breakouts and scarring, it can seem like an impossible feat. For a start, when it comes to textured skin, getting a smooth, seamless finish can feel impossible. Then, when you’re struggling with eight forms of hyperpigmentation and patchy redness, getting the right shade match can also be a challenge. Well, it does not have to be this way!
We caught up with makeup artist Ady Razak at the launch of the new Anastasia Beverly Hills Impeccable Blurring Second-Skin Matte Foundation. Offering long-lasting coverage with a velvet-matte finish, this foundation is packed with hyaluronic acid and Precision Blur Technology to hydrate the skin as well as blur pores and imperfections.
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Ahead, find his best insights from our chat with the makeup artist, from the best method for shade matching to the best way to apply your foundation.
ON HIS BEST APPLICATION TIPS
“It’s better to do everything in moderation,” Razak advises. “You don’t always have to wear a super full-coverage finish—sometimes, your skin just doesn’t need it. It’s actually better to focus coverage on the places you need it most, and then just build up where it’s necessary.”
“I like the Anastasia Beverly Hills Impeccable Blurring Second-Skin Matte Foundation because it’s super buildable,” he says. “You can apply it sheer as a light coverage layer, layer it up to medium coverage or build it up heavily for full coverage, but it’ll still look like your skin. Plus, because it has hyaluronic acid, it doesn’t look patchy even if your skin is really textured. It’s actually perfect for textured skin.”
“I like to use a dense foundation brush and sweep the product across the skin, first focusing on the centre of the face and then blending outwards. Then, if there are problem areas with acne or blemishes, I’ll stipple a little extra foundation over the area until they are covered,” he adds. “I also like that this foundation is a modern matte—it dries down, but it doesn’t look cakey or overly textured.”
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ON SHADE MATCHING FOUNDATION
“Usually, people will tell you to look at the veins on your wrist to gauge your undertone, right? I don’t think that works,” Razak laughs. “For me, I will typically find the general shade of my client, and swatch all of the available undertones in that range on their jaw area. From there, you can usually see what the best colour match is and work out which undertone their skin is.”
“I also recommend swatching on your jawline because ideally, you want to shade match your foundation to your neck—even if your face is lighter,” he continues. “You want to avoid a harsh line between your neck and jaw, and you can always correct and brighten your face with concealer and highlights. Having your foundation match your neck will give you a seamless finish, preventing your face makeup from looking like a mask.”
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ON CONSIDERING COLOUR THEORY
“Colour theory is important when it comes to picking your makeup,” Razak asserts. “If you wear bright-coloured or white hijabs, you’ve got to make sure that your foundation is lighter because once you put the hijab on, the contrast will make your foundation appear darker than it is. Likewise, if you wear darker hijabs, it’s best to go for your true shade or darker as the contrast will make your skin look brighter. Just make sure that you aren’t going too light with your foundation—that will make you look grey instead.”
“This colour theory also applies to hair, too,” he elaborates. “If you suddenly colour your hair so that it’s lighter or blonder, you’ll find that your usual shades of foundation look a bit dull or can make you look sickly. To fix it, you can either opt for a slightly darker shade to up the contrast between your skin and hair or you can add a little warmth with bronzer and blush.”
“For blusher and lipstick, it’s best to pick the shades only after you’ve chosen your hijab colour. Think of it this way: It’s better to add on and build up the colour as you go rather than having to take away your base,” he explains. “I actually like keeping two different shades of foundation on hand and mixing them according to what I need. Sometimes you’re more tan and you need a darker colour, sometimes you’re paler and you need a lighter one—sometimes, you’re in between and it helps to be able to mix the shades.”
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ON HIS KIT ESSENTIALS
“The five makeup essentials in my kit are very simple: First, a moisturiser to prep the skin for foundation. You really want the skin to be thoroughly hydrated for the best finish. Then, I need a buildable foundation (like the Impeccable Blurring Second-Skin Matte Foundation)—I actually think it’s more versatile than concealer. Finally, I have mascara, brow product and lipstick on-hand which is everything I need for a basic look.”
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