Fashion

Milan Fashion Week SS25: The best of Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta and more

Runway rewind

10.10.2024

By Benedict Unang

Featured images courtesy of Bottega Veneta
Milan Fashion Week SS25: The best of Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta and more

Two weeks have passed since Milan Fashion Week, yet the excitement hasn’t faded. This season was one for the ages, with Sabato De Sarno shaping his narrative at Gucci, Maximilian Davis bringing ballet fantasies to life at Ferragamo and Matthieu Blazy transporting us back to childhood innocence at Bottega Veneta. Ahead, we recap some of our favourite shows from the iconic Italian city. 

 

Ferragamo

 

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Creative director: Maximilian Davis 

Venue: Via B. Colleoni Gate 11 

Highlights of the collection: The new collection celebrates the House’s ballet heritage, offering a contemporary wardrobe that mirrors the style of today’s ballerina. On the runway, you’ll find a series of elevated practice outfits made from second-skin cashmere cotton, alongside opera coats and parachute dresses crafted from silk, nylon suede and organza. Central to this collection is the lively spirit of the Caribbean, expressed through stonewashed denim, flowy silhouettes and fun rubber jelly moccasins, injecting a whimsical touch to the sophisticated lineup.

Key pieces from the line: The dresses are absolutely stunning, from the edgy leather bodycon styles to the distinctive fingerprint pattern dress. Just as remarkable is the bold reinterpretation of the Gancini forms into a see-through leather trench coat. Meanwhile, the beloved Hug Bag has been expertly reimagined, with its single handle and supple leather shaping its silhouette, now also available as a chic clutch. And as we speak of the house of Ferragamo, it would be remiss not to mention footwear. Aside from the fringed jacquard mules and the geometric booties, the true showstoppers are the pointed angular Eva pump and graphic sandals, which are adorned with matte silk ribbons lacing up the calf. 

 

Bottega Veneta

 

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Creative director: Matthieu Blazy

Venue: Orobia 11 

Highlights of the collection: This season, Blazy brings his childhood memories to life in a setting filled with animal-shaped bean bags, creating an inviting backdrop for an impressive display of power dressing. The runway reveals a bold collection of suits, showcasing oversized shoulder pads and one-legged trousers, reminiscent of a child’s imaginative take on grown-up fashion. The exploration of materials thrives as leather is transformed into all-leather paillette evening dresses, while heavy cotton weaves give life to grunge flannel shirts. 

Key pieces from the line: Although the striped tops boast strong structures and oversized silhouettes, the real attention-grabbers are the herringbone dresses, paired with spiky hats. The accessories are worth a closer look as well with unique offerings like leather grocery bags and bouquets. Our favourite piece? The multi-coloured halter dress, worn by the legendary Mariacarla Boscono. 

 

Gucci

 

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Creative director: Sabato De Sarno 

Venue: Triennale Milano 

Highlights of the collection: Embracing De Sarno’s minimalist vision, the show opens with a sleek grey blouson jacket and matching trousers, exuding modern elegance. From there, it seamlessly transitions into a parade of feminine pieces like halter dresses and romper suits. Lace dresses and gently draped coats further unveil seductive hints of lingerie beneath. In the world of bags, the structured Gucci Go bag made its debut, while the classic Gucci Bamboo 1947 bags were revamped with contemporary accents in leather, lacquer, and Plexiglas.

Key pieces from the line: The structured jackets are must-haves, easily styled with shorts and A-line skirts. For a casual-chic look, don’t miss the oversized coats embellished with the iconic GG Monogram. Another highlight is the iconic Horsebit, which has evolved into stylish platforms, creepers, ballerinas, and ankle boots.

 

Versace

 

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Creative director: Donatella Versace

Venue: Sforzesco Castle 

Highlights of the collection: Versace captures the spirit of joy with retro palettes and striking print clashes. Soft zigzags of romantic wave prints disrupt floral patterns, while wild rose motifs cast shadowy illusions over pastels, powder blue and deep browns. At the same time, brown reigns as the new black, reinvented in sleek leather jackets paired with twisted-leg Japanese denim as well sharp brown suits layered with zigzag-knit sweaters. What also stands out is the brand’s playful use of its Crystal perfume bottles, now featured as handbag locks, sculptural heels on slingbacks and mules, and statement pendants in jewellery. 

Key pieces from the line: Poppy prints are irresistible this season, appearing in three-dimensional forms that embellish both outerwear and sportswear. This effect lends a fluid elegance to dress hems adorned with poppy motifs, while poppy cut-outs on men’s shirts create a trompe l’oeil illusion, artfully echoed in printed leather and sheer fabrics. Elsewhere, the Kleio handbag shines with its tactile leather patchwork and vibrant wild rose embroidery, while the Versace Tag makes its first appearance in fashionable hobo and bowling silhouettes. 

 

Fendi

 

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Creative director: Kim Jones

Venue: Superstudio Maxi 

Highlights of the collection: As Fendi gears up to celebrate its centenary, Kim Jones transports us back to the roaring ’20s, the era that laid the foundation for the brand’s illustrious history. The runway showcases a refreshing shift toward relaxed silhouettes, moving away from stiff corsets, each piece richly detailed with embroidered Art Deco motifs. The footwear steals the spotlight with chic ankle boots, crafted in collaboration with Red Wing. Marrying Fendi’s sumptuous Cuoio Romano leather and meticulous Selleria hand stitching with Red Wing’s timeless Classic Moc boot—a rugged staple since 1952—this collection harmoniously blends feminine allure with workwear heritage. 

Key pieces from the line: Sheer fabrics dominate the scene, making sensual statements in shirt dresses and flowing maxi skirts. The softest suedes and rebellious shearling wrap the models in daring robe-like silhouettes, while luxe suede croco shakes things up in unexpected t-shirt cuts. As for the bags, the iconic pieces have been reimagined with a playful softness. The Mamma Baguette, in particular, defies norms with its taller, wider, and bolder design.

 

 

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