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LFW SS16: Marques' Almeida

LFW SS16: Marques' Almeida

Distressed to impress


Image: Imax Tree

For S/S 2016 Portuguese designing duo Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida maintained their raw approach by unraveling a collection that balanced sheer frills with deconstructed edges, offering an undone yet sexy appeal

Located at a derelict warehouse in Islington—the designers' first ever self-chosen location, Marques and Almeida showcased their antagonistic collection of roughed-edged romance. Underlining their signature shredded denim, a street-style favourite, the winners of the may LVMH Young Designers award extended this raw and grunge-fueled edge onto romantic silhouettes and luxurious fabrications, ripping and fraying them to achieve a duality of grandeur and run-down insouciance.

Alongside this 'disheveled elegance' inspired by 90s singer Fiona Apple, texture created by the manipulation of fabrics was another key feature of the line with heavily packed asymmetrical frills and ruffle tiers in white, hot pink, red and blue lending an oxymoronic air to the rawness that permeated the runway. Also contrasting against the diaphanous chiffon and lace gowns in flesh-toned shades were heavy leather jackets and thick denim, offsetting the fragility and delicacy to attain a unique aesthetic.