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MFW SS16: Marni

MFW SS16: Marni

Pinafores, prints, paillettes and endless possibilities


At her S/S'16 show, Consuelo Castiglioni proves but one thing: Marni favours the bold

I think everyone wants to be a Marni girl. She's experimental but not weird, cool but never affected, quirky but not annoyingly so. Her understanding of colour, texture and proportion is spot on, but she gets when she has to dial it all back and show a little restraint. Fashion tact, if you will. And when it comes down to knowing exactly the right thing to do, Consuelo Castiglioni is the designer par excellence.

Her masterful hand ensures that despite clashing colours, overblown prints and paillettes, the end product is a seamless blend of grace, interest, sophistication and something indescribably Marni. Summertime layering has never looked this good: super-wide pants with tunic tops under dresses and leather pinafores— the collection had it all. Stacked lacquer bracelets were built with heft: they had to be in order to hold their own against the vibrant clothes. But it was a pool of black at the very end that sent hearts racing. Nothing changed bar the vivid colour palette. The silhouettes, technique and assembly were all quintesssential Marni but the startling rendition in stark black was the collection's loudest punctuation. It said: less is more.