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MFW SS19 day 1: Jil Sander, Alberta Ferretti and No. 21

20.09.2018

By Su Fen Tan

MFW SS19 day 1: Jil Sander, Alberta Ferretti and No. 21

Jil Sander

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Who: This is husband-and-wife design duo Lucie and Luke Meier’s third runway outing for the brand.

Where: The runway was set inside a former panettone bread factory, where nature has taken over and a little shrub sprouting from the floor tiles is nothing out of the ordinary.

The Low-down: Keeping to Jil Sander’s signature minimalist aesthetic, the Meiers weaves together a wardrobe of sophisticated, elevated basics with a sense of ease that renders it highly covetable. The mostly monochrome, crisp silhouettes of the opening co-ords made way for fluidity in languid ribbed knits, windbreakers and crochet dresses. A graphic illustration here, a sleeve detailing there deftly injects sartorial quality into everyday essentials.

Buro Loves: The chic micro bags convincing us that less is indeed more.

 

Alberta Ferretti

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Who: The Italian fashion veteran inspires adventure and exploration on the runway this season with the help of models of the moment Kendall Jenner, Kaia Gerber, Edie Campbell as well as Gigi and Bella Hadid.

The Low-down: For SS19, Alberta Ferretti is looking at “creating a new attitude that encourages women to voice their strong personalities through their innocence, gentleness and an almost dreamy calmness”. The dreaminess came through in a fresh colour palette of soft pink, blue and green, bringing to mind the colours of the desert at dusk. Doily lace tops are paired with baggy tapered trousers, while slouchy field jackets came in pastel hues, marrying an urban sense of adventure and romanticism with ease.

Buro Loves: The breezy chiffon maxi dresses, both minis and maxis, are the dreamiest of the lot.

 

No. 21

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Who: Alessandro Dell’Acqua seemingly takes a break from his masculine-meets-feminine aesthetic for this season, and constructed a collection for the No. 21 ‘Party Girl’ (the Michelle Gurevich song was playing in the background) – not a single pair of trousers was in sight.

Where: The huge concrete showspace is actually located in No. 21’s headquarters, a space designed by Hannes Peer that just opened last year.

The Low-down: This was a high shine, high impact lineup. There was something for every party girl (or not) out there—a sleek pencil skirt in faux patent ostrich leather is paired with a mesh turtleneck top for a sensual edge, feather outlines that one can throw over simple slip dresses flourish with lavish appeal, a hint of couture silhouettes ties in modern elegance, and babydoll shapes and soft hues cater to the sweet natured.

Buro Loves: The Swarovski chain skeleton with the outline of an oversized tee is perfect for bringing a little shine and character to basic ensembles.

 

MFW SS19 day 1 in 10 pictures:

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Get daily updates on Milan Fashion Week SS19 here.

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