Erdem
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Who: Erdem Moralioglu’s muse for the season is the late Princess Orietta Pogson Doria Pamphilj. He was particularly taken by the Italian aristocrat and art lover’s life story, whose early years took a turn for the worse when her father was arrested for resisting Mussolini’s Fascism, but later dedicated her life to the conservation of the family dynasty’s art collection and vast estates.
Where: The National Portrait Gallery painted the perfect backdrop for the collection that brimmed with old-world extravagance.
The Low-down: Casting his unmistakable moody, romantic lens on aristocratic grandeur, the designer sent down creations rich with volume, elaborate brocades, velvet bows, sumptuous embellishments and texture. Not forgetting his signature florals, splashed across tiered frocks, pantsuits, coats, sequinned dresses (embellished with ostrich feathers, no less), and voluminous gowns alike.
Buro loves: That beautiful floral pantsuit! Also, the opulent palette that spanned from regal green and purple to delicate blue and vibrant pops of orange and magenta.
JW Anderson
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Who: This season, Jonathan Anderson explores “the idea of a woman walking on clouds—this idea of fantasy and imagination in fashion”.
Where: A plush white carpet stood in for the clouds on ground, with rocks scattered at several points to mimic mountain peaks.
The Low-down: Not one to thrive on nostalgia, you can always count on Anderson to deliver newness. The calmness of the sleek grey cape that opened the show soon made way for a kaleidoscope of ideas that ran from exaggerated shoulders and billowing taffeta creations to bold paisley knits and decorative ruches—all tied together by Anderson’s wonderful way with fabric and cuts. When it came to the dresses, there was nary a plain hem or draping in sight. A shocking pink gown appeared to be a full-feathered galore from afar, but upon closer look one will find that it was actually made from hundreds of tassels.
Buro loves: How the fabric garlands adorned across the chest and needled through hems turned otherwise simple silhouettes into walking examples of creativity.
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