Men’s Fashion Week SS25: The best of Louis Vuitton, Gucci and more
Comfort first
The Men’s Fashion Week earlier this month left a lasting impression with several memorable highlights: Gucci‘s showcase of vivid extravagance was a refreshing departure from Sabato de Sarno’s previous men’s collection, Pharrell Williams presented designs at the UNESCO headquarters, and Loewe continued to uphold its commitment to simplicity. Ahead, find five of our favourite collections from the season.
Gucci
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Creative director: Sabato de Sarno
Venue: Triennale Milano
Highlights of the collection: Sabato de Sarno’s second menswear collection for Gucci bridges the gap between city and beach aesthetics, emphasising precise cuts and striking silhouettes infused with vibrant colours. Shorts are redefined as essential pieces, showcased alongside various styles like long wool coats and zip-up jackets. Meanwhile, the formalwear options include neatly tailored three-button single-breasted suits and relaxed double-breasted jackets made of lightweight poplin.
Key pieces from the line: Printed shirts are undoubtedly our favourites, surpassing traditional bowling styles with innovative details like three functional pockets. Some are embellished with beaded fringes or intricate appliqué embroidered flowers. The range of bags is also impressive, with designs inspired by vintage Gucci luggage. Complementing these are padded leather bags and crossbody styles. Elsewhere, the footwear features sculptural pointed toes, available in both booth and loafers variations, adding a stylish edge to any outfit.
Prada
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Creative director: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons
Venue: Deposito of the Fondazione Prada
Highlights of the collection: This season, the iconic duo captures elegance through simplicity. Everyday garments are purposefully refreshed with exaggerated proportions and vivid colours, embodying a spirit of freedom, youthful optimism and energy. The setting is equally striking, showcasing a minimalist hut that stands as a symbol of essentials, mirroring the direct and unpretentious ensembles seen on the runway.
Key pieces from the line: There’s a clever interplay of colours, like a green knit paired with yellow pants, or a lime green top with taupe bottoms. Superhero sweaters are refreshed abstractly, while Bernard Buffet’s paintings are printed like concert T-shirts. Another thing to note is the wide reflective sunglasses, offering views ranging from the classic interiors of an art museum to lively poolside scenes.
Fendi
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Creative director: Silvia Venturini Fendi
Venue: Superstudio Maxi
Highlights of the collection: The Italian house revamps work and play attire with soft, powdery hues, paying homage to the enduring House codes that precede the debut of its first men’s silhouette in 1990. Adding to the appeal, the Fendi Club motif decorates oversized blazers and cosy knitwear, elegantly displayed on the breast pockets and buttons. The minimalist backdrop does not disappoint—a set design featuring a series of six mirror columns.
Key pieces from the line: The Selleria stitch, originally passed down to the Fendi family by Roman master saddles, made a commanding presence on the runway. It was reimagined in various forms: as a broken pinstripe suiting jacquard, woven intro stripe or tonal FF logo motifs and applied as a textured surface on Japanese boro denim. Additionally, the Selleria stitches adorned various bags such as the Peekaboo ISeeU Soft, the new zippered Baguette Double crossbody and a patchwork baguette.
Louis Vuitton
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Creative director: Pharrell Williams
Venue: UNESCO headquarters
Highlights of the collection: The latest collection celebrates the universal essence of humanity, capturing the spirit of travellers through designs like bomber jackets, flight suits and camionneur-collared knitwear. Some pieces may appear muted in monotone white at first glance, but they reveal intricate details upon closer look, evoking both sensory and emotional experience.
Key pieces from the line: Workwear and tracksuits are enhanced with a focus on comfort, tailored specifically for leisure travellers. There’s also the launch of a new bag line, which includes timeless models like the Alma, Christopher and Neverfull, now crafted from incredibly soft, luxurious leather adorned with age VVN trimmings. Not to be missed are the shoes such as the updated LV bowling shoes in a variety of Nappa leather hues, as well as LV Rider cowboy boots featuring exotic patchwork in multiple colours and finishes.
Loewe
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Creative director: Jonathan Anderson
Venue: La Garde Républicaine
Highlights of the collection: This collection underscores Jonathan Anderson’s hallmark reductionist silhouette, accentuating verticality with a contemporary twist: reversible trousers and knitted pants that evoke the fluidity of ball gowns. The whimsical touch comes from large and long feathers delicately placed on the models’ forehead. And, of course, the set itself plays a crucial role, decorated with meaningful art objects that add depth and personal touch to the overall show.
Key pieces from the line: Loewe consistently unveils opulent pieces throughout the show, which includes a top crafted from mother of pearl and intricately woven metals reminiscent of wristwatch straps. Nostalgia plays a role too, evident in the transformation of a giant jacquard label into a top, echoing a time when names carry profound significance. Last but not least, the obsession with double-belt trends is undeniable, frequently coupled with cropped shirts to achieve a seamlessly balanced aesthetic.
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