Eats-A-Review: Highlights from Kai Nusantara Eatery, Bol, and Coal & Clouds
Eating good
If you’re constantly on the lookout for your next big meal, you’ve come to the right place. Welcome back to another edition of Eats-a-Review, where we whisk you through some of our recent favourite bites. In this read, you’ll find our thoughts on three of the city centre’s most exciting restaurants: REXKL’s Kai Nusantara Eatery, the picturesque Bōl, as well as Coal and Clouds by Babel in KLCC. Whether you’re in the mood for modern Peranakan bites, flavours from the Malay Archipelago, or creative East Asian-influenced plates, this is the read for you.
BOL
“Bōl is not your average Nyonya restaurant. Here, you can expect tasteful and creative reimaginations of classic dishes that might spark a meaningful memory or two as you bite into them. Tucked among the row of shophouses along Jalan Sin Chew Kee, Bōl’s all-white facade is easy to spot. In contrast to its simple exteriors, Bōl’s interiors are sure to leave an impression too with bold wallpaper prints and well-chosen furniture.
“We recently visited the Michelin Selected restaurant for a taste of its Jiran menu, a tribute to the flavours from the Nyonya communities of Malaysia and Singapore. From start to finish, we were presented with dishes that each had flavours familiar to our palates but looked like nothing we’ve seen before.
“The menu kicked off with a snack duo of Bōl’s signature rojak tart and otah-otah. The former was made with little cubes of Kyuri Japanese cucumber, jicama, and pineapple gel spheres. It is tied together with a punchy rojak sauce. Meanwhile, the latter presented a well-cooked cod and octopus otah-otah atop a crispy and light rice cracker. The otah-otah ticked all the right boxes from the spice mix down to the doneness of the seafood. As a fan of otah-otah, I was wholly approving of this dish, which also set the standards real high for the rest of the meal.
“Then came the abalone flan. The silky smooth dish combined abalone, octopus, and an assortment of spices that was served alongside tamarind coconut cream as well as a homemade chilled raita. Well-balanced and aromatic, this dish displayed technical finesse while hitting the nostalgic spot.
“Next, we were served my favourite dish from the meal: Bōl’s take on a prawn cracker. The dish comprised a rice puff-crusted tiger prawn atop a lotus root escabeche and Nyonya yellow curry. Complete with some kaffir lime, the curry was slightly sweet—especially when paired with the lotus root—which made it the perfect pairing for the crispy prawn.
“The following course was a clear and soulful “chye” consomme, derived from the Nyonya braised mixed vegetable stew, chap chye. Three vegetarian gyozas, sweet fuchuk pieces, and a crunchy tempura cabbage ring accompanied the consomme, adding some extra texture and flavour to the dish.
“For our mains, we were offered a choice between a quail “sou” or a halibut with limau purut (kaffir lime). I opted for the fish whereas my dining companion chose to go with the quail. The halibut was served with an asparagus and ginger relish, Asian polenta, as well as a limau purut reduction. Fragrant, tender, and spicy, this dish checked all the right boxes as a main.
“On the other hand, the quail took after a classic charsiew sou. It was cooked with a deep and flavourful charsiew sauce before being wrapped and baked with puff pastry to golden brown perfection.
“The meal concludes with the final course of a cendol panna cotta. Topped with some cookie crumble and a crispy caramel shard, the creamy panna cotta was the perfect ending to our meal. It wasn’t too sweet despite the addition of some gula Melaka and adzuki beans, which also contributed to the overal texture of the dish.
“Anyone looking for a thoughtful and filling meal made with some care should highly consider Bōl. Not only will your appetite be satisfied, but you will also feel right at home with its friendly service team and founders. Cocktail lovers should also peruse its drinks menu for a localised tipple to accompany your bites” —Amanda Fung, Senior Lifestyle Writer
Address: 15, Jalan Sin Chew Kee, Bukit Bintang, 50150 Kuala Lumpur
Opening hours: 6pm to 10.30pm (Tuesday to Friday) | 12pm to 3pm & 6pm to 10.30pm (Saturday and Sunday)
Contact: +6010 283 8869
KAI NUSANTARA EATERY
“Located in REXKL’s dining heart, Kai Nusantara Eatery proudly serves dishes that put the spotlight on Southeast Asia’s flavours. Being the little sibling of Chinatown’s Chocha Foodstore, diners can expect nothing but expert cooking using the aromas and ingredients that the region is known for.
“Chefs Mui Kai Quan and Nazri take the lead here, putting their expert knowledge of spice and flavour combinations into every dish. Though appearing simple, these dishes are anything but. Each plate is soulful and offers a creative take on dishes we see in home kitchens without ridding it of its original essence. While there, we got to sample a few of its menu’s greatest hits and were not disappointed.
“Meals here are served family-style, so anything goes! Don’t be fooled by its “size guide” on the menu, as even the small plates are enough for sharing—a plus point, in my opinion! We started with a plate of ulam nangka, a salad of mixed greens, jackfruit, local herbs, ginger flower dressing, and coconut flakes. Light and refreshing, the salad was a great kickstart to the meal, with the notes of jackfruit wafting over our palates.
“Then, a trio of acar rampai (seasonal pickled vegetables in vinegar and turmeric paste), sambal tumis telur puyuh (quail eggs in dried chilli paste), and sambal kering suhun (glass noodles and tempeh with dried chilli paste and peanuts) arrived. Each had its own distinct kick and were great for nibbling on while waiting for the other plates to arrive.
“For our protein, we got our beef fix with a gulai daging (beef ribs, eggplant, baby potatoes, and bamboo shoots) that was packed with flavour. The slow-cooked ribs took little to no effort to chew, while the baby potatoes and eggplant lapped up the sauce perfectly.
“We also got some crunch on the table courtesy of the sotong goreng berempah (fried baby squids in spiced batter), which was my personal favourite of the meal. Served with a sweet and spicy tomato sambal, the squids were just the right amount of chewy and tender, whereas the batter was properly spiced. Every piece of it was a joy to eat and I would be lying if I said I did not finish half the plate by myself.
“On top of the beef and squid, we were also served a Phanaeng kari ayam (chicken curry) and colek perut dan paru (crispy beef lungs and tripe with colek dressing, four-angled beans, and peanuts). The former went great with the rice and I couldn’t get enough of the sauce. Meanwhile, the colek perut dan paru also quickly became one of my favourites on the table. As an offal lover, the dish was much appreciated and executed well.
“As for our vegetable and fruit intake, the team prepared kerabu jantung pisang (pickled banana blossoms with unripe banana, sambal, and toasted cashews), pajeri nanas (pineapple in a sour and spicy sauce), and jagung goreng (fried corn ribs with sambal balado). The pickled banana blossoms are perfect for those who are a little more adventurous and want to introduce their palates to new flavours.
“Meanwhile, the pajeri nanas was a pleasant surprise! I’m usually not a fan of pineapples but its juiciness and texture complemented the tangy gravy harmoniously. Just by the sound of it, I knew I would enjoy the jagung goreng and I wasn’t wrong. The corn kernels were juicy and paired well with the slightly spicy sambal. Of course, don’t miss out on the carbs while you’re here, so you have something to enjoy the various gravies, curries, and sauces with.
“Kai Nusantara Eatery, which has just relocated to a new corner of the food hall, is a reliable spot to bring friends, both visiting and local, for some punchy and wholesome plates. For those who can’t take spice or are on a vegetarian diet, there are several options on the menu that will make sure you aren’t left out!” —Amanda Fung, Senior Lifestyle Writer
Address: REXKL, 80, Jalan Sultan, City Centre, 50000 Kuala Lumpur
Opening hours: 12pm to 10pm (Thursday to Tuesday)
COAL & CLOUDS BY BABEL
“It may be surprising to find a restaurant tucked away in a quiet corner along the corridor between Chanel and Dior on the Ground Floor of Suria KLCC’s P. Ramlee Entrance, but there is indeed one adjacent to the entrance of Babel Fitness. This open, casual dining spot specialises in East Asian influences, all set in a relaxed yet sophisticated atmosphere.
“Opened just last year, the restaurant has quickly become a bustling hub; gym-goers flock here for a healthy post-workout meal, while families stop by for a delightful dining experience. Its environment is inviting and contemporary, with pink walls, green furniture, and lush touches of greenery. The restaurant’s design, as I’m told, is crafted to reflect its name, blending the rustic charm of charcoal with the ethereal beauty of clouds.
“My dining experience began with some smoked hummus and flatbread. I was particularly excited about this dish, having craved hummus since my layover in Doha, Qatar, last month. This Mediterranean spread of smoked chickpea and tahini hummus was luxuriously creamy and nutty, meeting all my expectations. Paired with grilled flatbread, it was a satisfying start to the meal, and that was just one of the appetisers.
“Another appetiser that’s not to be missed is the furikake corn hob. Admittedly, I’m not a big fan of corn. However, I was encouraged to give this dish a try and was absolutely amazed by the flavour. Initially unsure of how to eat it, I found that using a knife to trim down the cob worked well. The blend of sweetness from the corn paired with the umami-rich and crunchy furikake created a delightful contrast that left a lasting impression. This dish alone is worth a return visit, in my opinion!
“For the main course, I tried the tiger prawn lobster bisque pasta. As a pasta lover, I’m rather picky about my pasta dishes, and I am happy to report that this one exceeded my expectations. The portion of giant tiger prawns was generous, with each one fresh, tender, and juicy. Chargrilled to perfection, the prawns imparted a subtle smokiness that complemented the sweet, rich, and creamy bisque. The pasta absorbed the sauce beautifully creating a harmonious blend of textures and tastes.
“At this point, I was feeling quite full, but I couldn’t resist making space for the grass-fed ribeye. The meat was incredibly tender and flavourful, with a smoky depth to every bite. It was paired with crisp, fresh asparagus that provided a refreshing complement.
“All in all, Coal & Clouds was a delightful surprise that I might have overlooked if I hadn’t taken a closer glance at Babel KLCC. Now that I’ve discovered it, I believe more people should check it out! Offering great, affordable dining options at about RM60-RM80 per person, it features a delicious, contemporary menu that will leave you eager to return. Plus, its convenient location near the gym makes it a perfect spot to enjoy a satisfying meal after a workout.” —Sarah Hani Jamil, Editor-in-Chief
Address: LC-G-02, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia 50088
Opening hours: 10am to 9.30pm (weekdays) | 10am to 9pm (weekends)
Contact: +6016 963 3520
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